‘Every Chef Ought to Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Restaurants.
When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.
A Surprise Accolade
This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners completely astonished.
“I am utterly surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Character of Simplicity
This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.
The Namesake Dish: Tantuni
However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.
It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.
Rising Above the Stars
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.
A Ethos of Hospitality
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
A Story of Hard Work
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
A Accomplishment for the Culture
The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.